Saturday, November 2, 2013

Fashion! - The 18C blue ermine Turquerie wrap travels from Europe to America


How American John Singleton Copley, stuck in what he felt was the unfashionable, backwater town of Boston, knew to borrow the particular shade of blue ermine Turkish style robes seen in 2 of his portraits is a mystery to me.  It is true that his stepfather had brought a goodly amount of black & white prints of European portraits with him, when he arrived in Boston.  Young Copley poured over these images.

These accessories were the perfect complement to the classical portrait costume, in which ladies could be portrayed as timeless entities. No constricting stays, no whims of constantly changing fashion, just a fanciful portrait costume placing them in the Turquerie style so popular during the 18th century.


The European & English blue ermine Turquerie wrap

1715 Studio of Charles Jervas (Irish Baroque Era Painter, ca.1675-1739)  Dorothy, Viscountess Townshend


1717 Charles Jervas (Irish Baroque Era Painter, ca.1675-1739) Dorothy Lady Townshend


1725 attributed to Jonathan Richardson (1665-1745). Lady Mary Wortley Montagu


1730 George Knapton (English artist, 1698–1778) Elizabeth Howard


1734 Hyacinthe Rigaud (1659 -1743) Marie Madeleine Mazade


c 1735 Circle of Johann Georg Ziesenis (Danish-German painter, 1716-1776) Portrait of Elisabeth Auguste of Sulzbach or Mariana Victoria of Spain


 1747 Louis Michel van Loo (French painter, 1707-1771) Marie Salle


Elizabeth Chudleigh (1720-1788) Duchess of Kingston


 1748 Felix Anton Besold (died before 1774) Elisabeth Auguste


1750 Jean-Etienne Liotard (Swiss artist, 1702-1789) Marie Charlotte Boissier


1750s Jean-Etienne Liotard (Swiss artist, 1702-1789) French lady in Constantionople


 1751 Francis Cotes (English Painter, 1726-1770)  Elizabeth (Gunning), Duchess of Argyll


1757 Joshua Reynolds (English artist, 1723–1792) Bridget Morris


 Henry Robert Morland. (English artist, 1719-1797) Queen Charlotte, Princess Sophia Charlotte of Mecklenburg-Strelitz, 1744 - 1818. Queen of George III About 1763


1766 Hugh Barron (British artist, 1747-1791) Elizabeth Ashton, Mrs John Plampin (Daughter of Henry Hervey Ashton)


1769 Joshua Reynolds (English artist, 1723–1792) Elizabeth Kerr, Marchioness of Lothian


1770 attributed to Thomas Gainsborough (English artist, 1727-88). Portrait of Mrs. Sparrow


 1770 Princess Amalie of Zweibrücken-Birkenfeld (1752-1828) or Princess Maria Thérèse of Savoy (1756-1805)


1770s Francis Cotes (English Painter, 1726-1770) Alice, Countess of Shipbrook


1780 Jens Juel (Danish painter, 1745–1802) Louise Augusta of Denmark

American versions of the blue ermine Turquerie wrap...


1763 John Singleton Copley (American colonial era artist, 1738-1815) Elizabeth Byles (Mrs. Gawen Brown)


1767 John Singleton Copley (American colonial era artist, 1738-1815) Elizabeth Cross (Mrs. Joseph Green)


 1769 John Singleton Copley (1738-1815) Martha Swett (Mrs. Jeremiah Lee)


 1772-74 Jeremiah Theus (American artist, 1716-1774). Mrs. John Dart


1780 Gilbert Stuart (American artist, 1755-1828). Christian Stelle Banister and son John


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