Saturday, November 2, 2013

Fashion! - The 18C blue ermine Turquerie wrap travels from Europe to America

How American John Singleton Copley, stuck in what he felt was the unfashionable, backwater town of Boston, knew to borrow the particular shade of blue ermine Turkish style robes seen in 2 of his portraits is a mystery to me.  It is true that his stepfather had brought a goodly amount of black & white prints of European portraits with him, when he arrived in Boston.  Young Copley poured over these images.

These accessories were the perfect complement to the classical portrait costume, in which ladies could be portrayed as timeless entities. No constricting stays, no whims of constantly changing fashion, just a fanciful portrait costume placing them in the Turquerie style so popular during the 18th century.

The European & English blue ermine Turquerie wrap

1715 Studio of Charles Jervas (Irish Baroque Era Painter, ca.1675-1739)  Dorothy, Viscountess Townshend

1717 Charles Jervas (Irish Baroque Era Painter, ca.1675-1739) Dorothy Lady Townshend

1725 attributed to Jonathan Richardson (1665-1745). Lady Mary Wortley Montagu

1730 George Knapton (English artist, 1698–1778) Elizabeth Howard

1734 Hyacinthe Rigaud (1659 -1743) Marie Madeleine Mazade

c 1735 Circle of Johann Georg Ziesenis (Danish-German painter, 1716-1776) Portrait of Elisabeth Auguste of Sulzbach or Mariana Victoria of Spain

 1747 Louis Michel van Loo (French painter, 1707-1771) Marie Salle

Elizabeth Chudleigh (1720-1788) Duchess of Kingston

 1748 Felix Anton Besold (died before 1774) Elisabeth Auguste

1750 Jean-Etienne Liotard (Swiss artist, 1702-1789) Marie Charlotte Boissier

1750s Jean-Etienne Liotard (Swiss artist, 1702-1789) French lady in Constantionople

 1751 Francis Cotes (English Painter, 1726-1770)  Elizabeth (Gunning), Duchess of Argyll

1757 Joshua Reynolds (English artist, 1723–1792) Bridget Morris

 Henry Robert Morland. (English artist, 1719-1797) Queen Charlotte, Princess Sophia Charlotte of Mecklenburg-Strelitz, 1744 - 1818. Queen of George III About 1763

1766 Hugh Barron (British artist, 1747-1791) Elizabeth Ashton, Mrs John Plampin (Daughter of Henry Hervey Ashton)

1769 Joshua Reynolds (English artist, 1723–1792) Elizabeth Kerr, Marchioness of Lothian

1770 attributed to Thomas Gainsborough (English artist, 1727-88). Portrait of Mrs. Sparrow

 1770 Princess Amalie of Zweibrücken-Birkenfeld (1752-1828) or Princess Maria Thérèse of Savoy (1756-1805)

1770s Francis Cotes (English Painter, 1726-1770) Alice, Countess of Shipbrook

1780 Jens Juel (Danish painter, 1745–1802) Louise Augusta of Denmark

American versions of the blue ermine Turquerie wrap...

1763 John Singleton Copley (American colonial era artist, 1738-1815) Elizabeth Byles (Mrs. Gawen Brown)

1767 John Singleton Copley (American colonial era artist, 1738-1815) Elizabeth Cross (Mrs. Joseph Green)

 1769 John Singleton Copley (1738-1815) Martha Swett (Mrs. Jeremiah Lee)

 1772-74 Jeremiah Theus (American artist, 1716-1774). Mrs. John Dart

1780 Gilbert Stuart (American artist, 1755-1828). Christian Stelle Banister and son John