Monday, October 12, 2015

17C Fashion - Conservative white ruffs on black gowns persevered into the 1600s


Ceremonial paintings of women often retained the conservative black & white depictions including the ruff in the 1600s. The ruff usually evolved into a more relaxed form as time passed.  Northern European women gave up their traditional black & white dress including ruffs more slowly. The standing ruff survived into the 1620's, but from 1615 to 1640 the falling ruff was more popular.

1602 Catalina de la Cerda, Duquesa de Lerma Fundacion Casa Ducal de Medinaceli, Spain



Giovanna Garzoni (Italian artist, 1600-1670) Marie Christine of France, Duchess of Savoy, wife of Duke Victor Amadeus I, Duke of Savoy, daughter of King Henry IV of France and Maria de' Medici

The ruff remained as a component of the ceremonial dress of city councillors in North German cities; of certain Lutheran clergy in Denmark, Norway, on the Faeroe Islands, in Iceland, & in Greenland.

Attributed to Frans Pourbus the Younger (1569-1622)



Michiel Jansz van Miereveldt (died 1641) Portrait of a Woman, 1628



Cornelis de Vos (Flemish Baroque painter, 1584-1651)



Cornelis de Vos (Flemish Baroque painter, 1584-1651) Two sisters



Cornelis de Vos (Flemish Baroque painter, 1584-1651)



1632 Rembrandt Harmenszoon van Rijn (1606-1669) Portrait of a Woman, probably a Member of the Van Beresteyn Family



In style Johannes Cornelisz Verspronck (1606-1662) Lady with a Ruff



1642 Michael Conrad Hirt (1613–1671) Anna Rosina Tanck, Wife of the Mayor of L├╝becker



Cornelius Johnson (Flemish-born English Baroque Era Painter, 1593-1661) Portrait of a Woman



Cornelius Johnson (Flemish-born English Baroque Era Painter, 1593-1661) Lady Hester Bowyer (d 1665)



1600s Cornelis de Vos (Flemish Baroque painter, 1584-1651) Antonia Canis



1603 Peter Paul Rubens (Belgian painter, 1577-1640) Lady with Rosary



1605 attr to Domenico Robusti, also known as Domenico Tintoretto, (Italian painter, 1560-1635 , Portrait of a Woman



1610 Unknown woman by Robert Peake the Elder (English painter, c 1551–1619)



1610 William Larkin (English painter, c 1580 – 1619) Mary Radcliffe m Sir John Gell of Hopton



1611 Agnes Fermor attr to Marcus Gheeraerts the Younger (Flemish English painter, 1562–1635)



1634 Frans Hals (Netherlandish painter, 1580-1666) Malle Babbe



1640 Frans Hals (Netherlandish painter, 1580-1666) Woman wit a Fan



1661 Rembrandt Harmenszoon van Rijn (1606-1669) Margaretha de Geer

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16C - 17C Fashion - Modified ruffs & wings + a bit of color


1620 unknown lady by Nathaniel Bacon (English painter, 1585–1627)



1595-1600 Mary Fitton



1600 attr to Domenico Robusti, also known as Domenico Tintoretto, (Italian painter, 1560-1635), Madonna delle Rose



1603 Princess Royal, daughter of James I, VI and Anne, 1603



1605 Francesco Montemezzano (Italian artist, c 1540-1602) Portrait of a Woman with Children



1605 Margaret of Savoy by Federico Zuccaro (Italian Mannerist Painter, ca.1542-1609)



1611 Princess Elizabeth of France by Frans Pourbus the younger (Flemish painter, 1569–1622)



1616 Lady Diana Cecil by William Larkin (English painter, c 1580–1619)



1619 Unknown Lady



1620 A lady in Red by Marcus Gheeraerts the Younger (Flemish English painter, 1562–1635) Detail



1620 A lady in Red by Marcus Gheeraerts the Younger (Flemish English painter, 1562–1635)



1620 Lady Bridget Croke by Marcus Gheeraerts the Younger (Flemish English painter, 1562–1635)



1623 Elizabeth of Bohemia



1623 Unknown Spanish Lady by Follower of Bartolome Gonzalez



1623 Mary Bromley



1625 Dame Mary Wooley attr English school



1639 Sigrid Kurtzel Swedish School



1616 Robert Peake the Elder (1551–1619) Elizabeth Kenn Poulett (1593-1663)



Perhaps Elizabeth Sidney (1585-1614) Attributed to Marcus Gheeraerts (II)(1561–1636)



1619 Paul Van Somer, Lady Elizabeth Grey, Countess of Kent Elizabeth Talbot (1582-1651)




1615 William Larkin (English painter, c 1580–1619) Frances Howard Countess of Somerset (1593-1632)



16C Fashion - The modified ruff


Unknown Lady - English



1570 Giovanni Antonio Fasolo, Venetian Noblewoman

By the end of the 1500's, many ruffs were lace made of both needle & bobbin type lace. In the 1580s, ruffs generally began to expand even further outward. They became slightly flatter, no longer filling the space from shoulder to neck; instead, the figure-eights became wider & flatter & the ruff itself became wider in diameter. During the 1590s, both small & large open falling neck ruffs & larger standing ruffs & more open bodice areas became popular. By the end of the 16th century, ruffs were falling out of fashion in Western Europe, often in favor of lacy wing collars.


1578 Unknown Lady by Nicholas Hilliard



1578 Unknown Lady by Nicholas Hilliard



1580 Domenico Robusti Tintoretto Lady in White



1585 Unknown Lady - French School



1589 Elizabeth Brydges, later Lady Kennedy, daughter of Lord Chandos and maid of honour to Elizabeth I of England, aged 14 by Hieronimo



1590 Domenico Robusti Tintoretto The Dogaressa



1590 Mary Sydney (1561-1621) Herbert Nicolas Hilliard



1590 Unknown Lady by Nicholas Hilliard



1590s Young lady holding a book by Italian School



1592 Mary Rogers, Lady Harington by Marcus Gheeraerts the Younger



1595 Mary Fitton by a follower of George Gower  Note: Just a little gossip. While researching this painting I found the following, "...Maid of honour to Queen Elizabeth, & alleged to be 'the dark lady' mentioned in Shakespeare's sonnets... Her vivacity made her popular with the young men at court, & she became the mistress of William Herbert (1580-1630), the young earl of Pembroke... Early in 1601 she was "proved with child." Pembroke admitted his responsibility, & both were threatened with imprisonment.  The earl "utterly renounced all marriage" and was sent to the Fleet in March, but his mistress, who was delivered of a son, seems to have escaped punishment.  The child died soon after birth.  According to Sir Peter Leycester (1814-1678) Mary Fitton also bore 2 illegitimate daughters to Sir Richard Leveson, knight...There seems no doubt that she married Captain William Polwhele in 1607."  (Stephen & Lee, 1889, p. 83)



1595 Unknown Lady painted by the Circle of Marcus Gheereaerts II



1595 Unknown Venetian artist, Portrait of a Noblewoman



1597 Unknown Lady painted by an artist in the circle of Robert Peak



Lady Francis Kildare Frances Howard (d 1628)



Mary Waldegrave Lady Clopton (d 1599) by Gheeraerts Detail of painting below



Mary Waldegrave Lady Clopton (d 1599) by Gheeraerts



Unknown English Lady



Unknown Lady of the English Court



Unknown Lady in white dress



Unknown Lady painted by an artist in the circle of Marcus Gheereaerts II c1595 Detail



Louise de Lorraine (1553 - 1601), Queen of France